Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.